Chimi Lhakhang - The Fertility Temple in Bhutan

As I travelled across Bhutan from touristy west to spiritual Bhumtang, I heard many unusual stories, saw centuries-old traditions and rituals performed by monks. The most unusual of them was the story of Chimi Lhakhang, the Fertility Temple of Bhutan. Chimi Lhakhang, a dedication to Lama Drukpa Kuenly who subdued a demoness with his mighty penis. Yes, you read it right. What was even more surprising was to see giant penis murals on the home walls in different colours and intricate designs, seeing giant carved wooden erections adorning the entrances to temples, smaller ones at the home and shop doors entrance.  Seeing my amusement towards the phallus symbols, my guide told me that Chimi Lhakhang is one of the most popular Lhakhang in Bhutan where women come to seek blessings to beget children and hence it is known as the Fertility Temple of Bhutan. He also told me that locals believe that images of Phallus aid in fertility, ward off evil spirits and dispel malicious gossip.

If you want to know more about this unusual, unheard temple, keep reading further. I have covered the history of this Fertility temple, how can you reach the Fertility Temple, pass requirements and everything else. Disclaimer - The post has images of the male phallus. If you are uncomfortable, do not read further. However, I strongly recommend you to read the history section for the Fertility Temple to understand why images of male Phallus are so normal in Bhutan.

Quick Navigation for the blog

History and a brief about Chimi Lhakhang
Timings and Entry fees for Chimi Lhakhang
Permit requirement for visiting Chimi Lhakhang
How to reach Chimi Lhakhang, the Fertility Temple of Bhutan
Best time to visit Chimi Lhakhang, the Fertility Temple of Bhutan
Do’s and Don’ts for visiting the fertility temple of Bhutan
Restaurants near Chimi Lhakhang
Attractions near Chimi Lhakhang

History about Chimi Lhakhang the fertility temple of bhutan

Chimi Lhakhang is dedicated to a Lama Drukpa Kuenly, a 15th-century saint from Tibet. He was known for his non-conventional ways of teaching and because of his approach of teaching Buddhism people called him the “mad saint” and the “divine madman”.

Locals say that there was a demoness from Dochula area. when lama went on the task to destroy her, she turned herself into a dog. But Drukpa Kunley subdued her with his penis (locally known as the flaming thunderbolt of wisdom because of its ability to subdue demons) and buried her under a hill, and cried out “Chi med!", meaning “No dog!" This spot is where the Chimi Lhakhang (or the “no dog" temple) now stands. And that is the story of how this penis became divine and protective symbol. 

The history of Chimi Lhakhang reminded me of Hindu mythological stories where demons were killed using extraordinary weapons of God.

Inside the Fertility Temple of Bhutan and the spiritual ceremony of blessings to conceive a child

Inside the Fertility temple, there are beautiful statues of lama Kunley and others. You will see lit butter lamps enlightening the dark inner chamber, maroon robed monks sitting in the corner, some meditating and some chanting prayers in low vibrating voices. 

If you are lucky, you may also see a ceremony happening for granting the wish of bearing a child. The senior monk enchants special prayer and blesses the woman with 3 inches tall wooden phallus to conceive a child. The woman then carries the wooden phallus and walks around the temple, barefoot, three times. A 300 hundred years old bone dice is rolled and basis the number on the dice, the monk announces if the ceremony was successful. The monks also name the offspring using bamboo chits. There is also a photo album of the success stories of couples from all over the world who had visited the Fertility Temple and got blessed with a child soon thereafter. 

The whole ritual and the stories from the album made me wonder about the deep spirituality and faith that Bhutan is known for.

Rice field and beautiful village of Sopsokha

There are two ways to reach Chimi Lhakhang, either through the highway (with a small walk of 10 minutes to Chimi Lhakhang) or through the Village of Sopsokha.

I will strongly recommend you to choose the Sopsokha village option where you hike through the golden rice fields of Bhutan. As you walk through the Sopsokha village, you will notice heritage style houses and phallus everywhere - painted on homes, carved in wood, installed above doorways, painted on shops. In the open rice fields, you will notice prayer flags looped around tall bamboo poles, fluttering in the breeze, carrying with them the prayers of good people.

I feel walking through the Sopsokha village and seeing walls painted with colourful and intricate phallus brings stories of Chimi Lhakhang back to life.

Unusual souvenirs from Chimi Lhakhang

You will find some really different and unusual souvenirs outside the Fertility temple of Bhutan like a Phallus teeshirt, a plane, a phallus necklace. Don’t miss to have a look at them and may be buy some to surprise (scandalise) the people back home!

Timing and Entry fees for Chimi Lhakhang, the fertility temple of Bhutan

• Chimi Lhakhang is open every day from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM. If you are visiting the Fertility Temple in winters, visit a little early as sometimes, they close sooner.

• There is no entry fee for the Fertility Temple. Since the temple runs on the donations, do consider donating an amount, as per your budget.

Permit for visiting Chimi Lhakhang, the fertility temple of Bhutan

• Passport holders from India, Bangladesh and Maldives will need a special permit to visit beyond Paro including Punakha and the Fertility Temple of Bhutan. The special permit can be made from Thimpu.

• If you are coming from other countries, you do not need a special permit. All the requirements will be taken care of by your tour operators. Just ask them to add Chimi Lhakhang, the Fertility Temple in your itinerary.

How to reach Chimi Lhakhang, the fertility temple of Bhutan

• Chimi Lhakhang, the Fertility temple of Bhutan is in Lobesa village of Punakha. It is around 10 km from Punakha Dzong. The best way to reach Chimi Lhakhang will be through a private cab.

• If you are travelling from Paro or Thimpu, you can take a local bus from Thimpu and Paro. There are limited buses only between main towns and with no stoppages on the go. The bus will drop you at the Wangdue bus stop (around 15 km from Punakha) and from there you will need to get a taxi from for your next stop.

Best time to visit the Fertility Temple of Bhutan

• March to May (Spring Season) and September till November (Autumn season) are the best months to visit Bhutan overall.

• Late December till early February is really cold and temperature could fall below -5 in some parts of Bhutan. Punakha lies in the lower altitude areas and the temperature here will not as cold as other areas.

Do's and Don’ts for Visiting the Fertility Temple of Bhutan

• The Fertility temple is extremely important for locals from a religious values point of view. Respect their sentiments on the importance of the temple.

• You will find phallus paintings almost on the walls of all the houses in the villages and also, the craftwork being sold. The ambience is not made inappropriate. In case you are travelling with a kid, plan your visit to the Fertility temples as per your choice. For locals, it is a normal practice to visit the temple with their kids.

• I recommend modest clothing while visiting the Fertility Temple. Wear comfortable shoes as you will be crossing through the rice fields and also 20 minutes of an easy hike.

• You will need to remove shoes before entering the main temple. Also, photography is not allowed inside the temple.

• Do not talk loudly inside the main temple as it is regarded as inappropriate in the culture. 

• There are many small shops selling souvenirs outside the temple. The prices of which are a bit on a higher side when compared to the prices in the Cities (Paro/ Thimphu).

• There are no ATMs near the temple. The closets one will be in the main town of Lobesa.

Restaurants near Chimi Lhakhang

• There are no restaurants/ cafes close to the temple. However, on the trail to the temple in Sopokha village, you will find a few small restaurants, primarily serving the local cuisines.

• Chimi Lhakhang cafe, a timber hotel in Sopokha village, is known for the scenic view of the rice field overlooking villages and local Bhutanese cuisines.

Attractions near Chimi Lhakhang

• Punakha Dzong - Around 10 km. Considered as most beautiful Dzong of Bhutan. 

• Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten (Shrine) - Away from the rush and crowd of Punakha Dzong and offering breathtaking aerial views of Punakha Valley. You need to do around 1-hour of a hike to reach the Khamsum Shrine.

• Punakha Suspension Bridge - 520 feet’s longest suspension bridge of Bhutan

I hope you found this blog on the Fertility Temple of Bhutan helpful for planning your Bhutan trip. Do consider adding Chimi Lhakhang to your itinerary as it is a different experience comparing rest of Bhutan. If you have any more questions, drop them in the comments and I will revert soon.

If you are exploring Bhutan, do check out my other Bhutan travel blogs here. These Bhutan travel blogs will help you plan a perfect, non-conventional itinerary for Bhutan.

Love,

Tanned Travel Girl